What size sling for top rope anchor reddit. Put sling (s) and carabiner (s) on the second tree.

• What size sling for top rope anchor reddit. If the slings are going to be loaded over an edge, maybe use thicker nylon slings and double up. no risk of a static material taking a dynamic load) and B) the rope absorbs a lot of the dynamic force of falling. What's the best way to extend a bolted anchor past a ledge? Hi guys, I've been doing my own top rope anchors this summer and unfortunately my brand new (first) rope is taking a pretty big beating from some ledgey routes. Been using it for a year and prefer the static rope over slings. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Gear For Rigging Top Ropes Cordelette and slings Top-rope climbing involves two kinds of “anchor”. The sling is a mammut magic sling 120cm (dyneema centre with abrasion resistant nylon sheath). I build an anchor - my typical setup is to sling 2-3 anchors, then connect them with either a cordlette or a length of static Sometimes I'll add an instructor anchor rope (if I have excess in the system) Get onto rappel My anchors are always extended over the edge, so the transition to rappel always seems goofy and not very Establishing top rope anchor using two quickdraws - acceptable? Hey, I'm dabbling into the basics of climbing, and am wondering if it is (and why not) acceptable to establish a top rope anchor by attaching two quickdraws to the It looks good from a safety perspective. An equalette or cordelette Here's what I'd recommend: 30m static rope (9-11 mm) 1 or 2 25ft cordolettes 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. You set the knot on the backside of the tree so the least amount of force is acting upon the knot and almost all the I’m going to hazard a guess and say it’s only rated for a single person to weight the sling. 2 Non-Locking D Carabiners 2. I can't think of any normal The stance was awkward and I had limited gear (I had been using the slings to tie quads earlier). The master point is not over the lip, so they’ll have bad rope drag and it’ll wear their rope prematurely. This is 100% a MYTH. Now you’re completely on top of each other. " I clove hitch the rope into 2 5/5 pieces or 3 4/5 pieces, a 3/5 piece doesn't belong on an anchor. Is it safe to stick one That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review how to create a top rope anchor using a double- Any issues with using a (nylon or dyneema) double-length sling (sliding x with limiters) for a two-bolt anchor, either on TR (where there's no issue with rope or biners running over an edge, so no static line build needed)? Lots of climbers ask me: "How can i build a top rope anchor?". A truly dynamic anchor will bounce up and down, which could lead to abrasion against a sharp edge. Falls closer to anchor with any slack in the system will be more jarring etc than any top rope or lead fall. 5kn 7mm is between 13. If you're on a budget I would buy a set of DMM hexes. You might get an extra single runner to hang all your gear on, which you can then Make sure all knots in the webbing are properly dressed and long tails. Aaaand go enroll in a top rope anchor course. 66=10. Then hook the 2 eyes with the carabiner. comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Tl;dr the anchor was extended over an edge with a nylon sling. The chain is attached by two bolts/anchor points in the rock at both ends of it. You don't need 2 opposing, a single locker will work. However I've seen people make their anchor many other different ways. The gates on the three carabiners I can see are facing the rock. You're good. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Girth hitched sling or PAS through harness, locker to bolt/chain/rats nest, pull rope from above, set rap, release anchor and go. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. I was shown to make a self-equalizing anchor (with the x) using a sling and 4 locking carabiners, and have done that since. Don't top rope directly through the bolt (which accelerates wear and cuts a groove as shown in the photo) and do extend the anchor downwards using your own sling and screw gate so that the rope runs through and wears your own crab. Better to put it up higher so that you can comfortably stand on the ledge while weighting the anchor. Yes, two seperate slings is a far stronger system, but requires both anchor bolts to be at the same height to properly distribute the load on two equal length slings, which is not always the case. EXAMPLE: You set a sliding -X on a two bolt anchor and one of the bolts is rusty and blows out. This is the least of their problems, because forces Size, storage or organization, how well the bag sits, material choices, and design. Wanted redundancy, limited extension, and the master point below the ledge. Don't do that. Get a carabiner that's rated for a 1/2 ton (or more). This is not good. I don't know if it matters in this situation, top rope doesn't exactly generate high forces. However, learning how to place traditional gear will give you a lot What length and thickness of static rope is a good starting point to build an anchor? I was thinking maybe 10m (33ft) and 11mm as it it might be rubbing up against things. The two knots are just simple over hands. At only $18 a pop they won't break the bank and will give you a good size range to complement a standard set of nuts. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. There are many ways to set up a top rope anchor and this article covers 7 of them. You can absolutely do all of that with a couple of long slings, but I like the easy length adjustability. The way I set up tree anchors is I use 40 ft of webbing (I prefer webbing to static rope because the webbing is flat and won't abrade the tree as much and cause less erosion of the bark) wrapped around the trees 3 times and the ends tied together with a water knot. General Comment: Aside from the general unsafety due to bad knots and poor redundancy of some of these, really long slings/static rope off into the trees is fairly standard for east coast top roping. The rope you're climbing on should be doing the stretching, a moving masterpoint under weight can allow strands of your anchor legs to cut against the rock. The reason for putting the double fisherman's in the looped section is if it blows you still have another strand holding it to the anchor bolt. If the anchor is out of reach I'll clip the rope and clove hitch to a biner on the rope loop so I can adjust it easily. One carabiner and sling on each anchor is okay, as the anchors are so close together that if one fails the swing/movement would be minimal. You take a shortish sling, exact size may be trial and error, and tie an overhand knot in the middle so you now have two equal size loops. Most outdoor shops and websites sell webbing by the foot, but unfortunately they don’t sell static rope this way. In a top-roping situation, your anchor slings are fine: they are 1) likely under constant load (i. Learn how to choose the type you need. Learn all about it here. I want to set up anchor for a bottom rope. Use this for gear anchors, tree anchors and so forth Also get a couple double length slings for tied off anchors. This is why 2 biners and 2 slings per side is required. webbing is not the best for a TR anchor because the water knot that you use to bind them together will loosen up under repeated loading and unloading which is typical . e. What else Don't top rope around the tree itself (which is likely to damage the tree) and 2. At the same time, the rope is 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. While it is the least secure, it likely won’t allow the rope to come out especially if you do not climb above the anchor when cleaning but still does not have the added security of all the other methods. For smaller slings you have the Aer city sling 2 and the Aer Day Sling 3, both fantastic choices. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I I like it for cleaning a sport route, setting up a top rope anchor, and starting a rappel. Green sling is doubled over and knotted. What do you usually use for a top rope sport anchor and why? I've been with various groups that have used quickdraws with locking biners, sliding x with limiter knots, and simple overhand/figure 8 knot on a bight, and I'm curious what climbit's preference is. A pretty cool step-by-step explanation of anchor building for top-rope set ups. The Double Sling You can also set up a top rope anchor with two slings, which can be faster and easier than using a cordelette, though it’s a little harder to equalize if the bolts are staggered. Bad things (can) happen. What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X would make the anchor perfectly equalized, but extensible. I've done this with the ball on my truck. The best personal anchor will Say I've arrived at a two-bolt anchor, but I'm not 100% sure the bolts are bomber. Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. The uses of this would depend on the size. You also don't have your carabiners travelling over the fisherman if the person on top rope wonders off route. It requires more rope than a girth hitch, but can be done with a climbing rope which is a monolithic anchor (i. As for geartop roping is pretty easy to get into, the rope is the expensive part. So let's go back to our calculated 17kN on the anchor. I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. A couple small lockers for the bolts and a big locker and matching oval non locker for master point is what I use if I want a super bomber top rope with said tied off sling. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. I do climbing photography and top rope soloing and so often set up fixed lines. Bomber Top-Rope Anchor Kit: 120cm or 180cm sling of either Dyneema or Nylon 2 Screwgate or Triple Action HMS Carabiners 2 Locking D Carabiners A basic TR anchor. Blue sling runs from upper bolt to lower and back up, tied off with a clove to limit extension, and I clipped the tail to the lower just to back up the clove. Put an arm through each loop, sort of like putting on a jacket, with the knot between your shoulder blades. Put sling through anchor and around center of rope. This anchor is fine. The quad will self-equalize for both of them without needing any adjustment. What am I missing? Actually, there's two slings, so it is redundant, but you're correct in that it's a bad choice for a top rope anchor if the bolts aren't exactly where you want the top rope redirect to be. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. Will be anchoring off of trees and large boulders often. A more bomber Girth hitches reduce the strength of the sling while they are tied, just like all knots. Although I am curious about what around here thinks. If the bolts are far enough apart that they don't make a small angle with quickdraws, or one bolt is higher so they don't hang very evenly, or the masterpoint should be lower to prevent the rope from rubbing on rock, then I switch to a sling/cord anchor. In general, a static cord is preferred for a top rope anchor. Two Bolts One Sling I’m looking to set up a top rope anchor off of two bolts with a 10mm double-length sling. This is the pic he sent me of the anchor. Here's what I mean. 24 kN So, if a climber dies from experiencing a 10. Rather than using one sling, is it still safe to use two like this? If there's any doubt, I'll just extend the master point with slings. The sling was knotted at both ends so it became 2 independent strands effectively, providing good redundancy. Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. I was just wondering what are some common or overlooked mistakes people make when setting up top rope anchors? Like dropping a rope off and edge at 90° and etc. To avoid damage, especially to an extended anchor, the materials should be as static as possible. I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. I have been looking into rope soloing on lead with a grigri 2, and have heard some horror stories about carabiners breaking and the device failing to lock. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. This is a pretty simple setup, and often needs nothing more than I recommend starting off with four slings, two single (24") runners and two double (48") runners, to help with your top rope anchor building. I often carry a 240cm sling just in case I don't have enough rope or I'm leading the next pitch, but I rarely use it. Using slings as top rope anchors My climbing friends have been telling me it's bad practice to get into setting up top rope anchors using slings. That is to say, if you reach an anchor and want to set up a rappel, connect yourself directly to the anchor with a dyneema sling so you can untie yourself from the rope and begin setting up the rappel, then somehow find yourself with the How bad is this top rope anchor and why? My brand new climber friend went climbing with someone I was skeptical about. So more than 2 meters from anchor to anchor? Yes 2 meters or greater, on a large Y-hang you need redundancy on each side to prevent possible swing potential. Gates should be away from the rock and screwgates should tighten with gravity if they’re vertical. I'm climbing at a place that has big spires at the top of each climb (bit like climbing a tower). You’ll need: Two nylon or Dyneema slings You'd be better getting rid of the second sling entirely and just clipping a locker to the first sling (where the 2nd sling is looped through it). Wrap the strap around the rope and extra time or two if you're worried about rope sliding. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. Building a trad anchor for top rope is the same as building a trad anchor for any other purpose, so what size cams you'll need will be based off of the width of the crack. One is an anchor built off of bolts at the top of a cliff. In my mind such a small fall could easily be produced by a small fuck up at the anchor while clipped in with a sling to belay, yank on a stuck rap rope or haul a bag etc yes you can tie in to the anchor with the rope but often at semi hanging belays I also use a sling to keep rigging simple and allow for easy adjustability etc. I prefer using the static line over webbing personally, as it's easier to work with and more versatile. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. Or approaching the edge from above and doing a V thread close to the edge but on the horizontal parts of the ice. The take home message, don't take a 30m whipper on top rope with a static rope and a static belay, and your knotted sling anchor will be fine. You'll need to do some research about what rope to get though, there is a lot of varietydiameter, treatments, dynamic/static, length, etc. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). This is useful if you want to top rope two different routes which are immediately next to each other, but share the same anchor. In the other hand, a failing top rope anchor on a 25 meters wall means death, so you cannot really bet on a small probability of issue, except if you prove that this proba is less important than "the air suddenly becomes toxic and eat your rope". Instead of doing two overhand knots on the legs and a sliding x, are there any advantages/disadvantages to doing two figure eights instead? Also, is this method redundant enough while using one 10mm sling? I recently started climbing outdoors. I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. Learn what top rope climbing is and how to set up and clean a versatile top-rope anchor: the quad. Hey guys. Personally I would put the main beams up, and use slings on branches then just sling, or even bolt the beam, not the tree, ideally you want a releasable system on a ground anchor with A tied off Munter hitch for a releasable srt system, but I would say someone you know will know someone who knows how to set up rigging. A general advice is to invest in a few locking carabiners and a 60 cm sling at first. It helps keep I have a question about the use of shackles for the connection between the ropes and slings? Are there concerns with the use of shackles vs something that has 2 actions as a connector like a carabiner? I'd try a short 1 or 2 foot lifting sling/strap. I hear a lot of people use quads for single pitch sport, and I do think it is a bit overkill. The slings are redundant by virtue of their being two of them attached to different anchor points. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. Clove hitch my static line to the You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. I usually build a normal anchor and clip in a figure 8 on a bight to the master point. Are there any ways around this, besides for the obvious solution of backup knots, like attaching the grigri to your belay loop with a sling, or some other way of using it? Learn how to extend the anchor over the edge so your rope hangs free. Ergonomics wise, it looks like it’s pretty low vs the ledge you are standing on. The two carabiners at the top will be locked to a thick steel chain. I always clove in with the rope while climbing, but I’ll use a sling or a PAS as a personal anchor while rappelling. Static rope is more difficult to find/buy than tubular webbing, at least in the lengths useful for top rope anchors at Devils Lake (30-60 feet). Tie off one tree, set your masterpoint (hanging the climbing rope from the masterpoint for weight helps), adjust the static rope leg to the second tree using a tensionless anchor or a sling around the tree and a clove hitch on a locking carabiner. You can use the quad anchor to set up a top rope. If you're only ever going to be top-roping off bolts, you could keep a dedicated quad anchor, which is like a super strong/redundant sliding-X, or you could just use a non-equalising cordelette, which I'd probably favour because it's easier to adjust the position of the top-rope carabiners to get them just over an edge, etc. A repeat to condense information from the threads I linked: Tie one end of the static line to 1st tree (I'd probably use a Bowline & stopper knot). To clean a route completely (retrieving your top carabiners), you'll have to rappel down (fine to do directly in the anchor) which may require additional gear too. 24 kN force while toproping the anchor would be just about at its breaking point. Move to edge and tie a BFK or two Fig 8 loops, clip in carabiners and hang my top rope for weight. A smaller length sling would be alright for a personal anchor, but you would likely have difficulty equalizing Lots of top access waterfall ice in Southern Ontario. 6mm appears to be rated around 6-7. All the rigging and knots are fine. There’s a massive angle on the white sling. All the info has already been posted, but I use 8mm static rope. The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact package. The bottom line is that these videos are talking about what happens when static material is dynamically loaded. What size slings and how many each do you like having set aside for trad anchors? Or do you prefer cordelette? And why. Of course 1 person (the second) is going to need a sling and a binder to clip the master point or the shelf. Learn how to set pro and use appropriate natural protection. I will show you how to set up a simple yet tough and awesome top rope anchor. For example, with 2 slings instead of 1, with a cordette in a quad instead of a sling, or just 2 quickdraws (is the lase one somehow unsafe?) I'm curious There are other ways of rigging a tether, for instance, a four-foot sling with klemheist on one anchor leg clipped to your belay loop (this obviously uses less of your rope), which the SPI calls the "Joshua Tree system. no need for a purcell or PAS just girth hitch a sling from your tie in point and clip into the anchor, keep the sling weighted so you can't fall on it. internally redundant) Connecticut Tennessee hitch is an interesting mix of the two that is nice for multipitch anchors. Two extendable draws are my preferred setup (in case the anchor bolts are set wide or are placed vertically or offset). Just wanted to see if slinging a tree is a viable method to build a top rope anchor, or too much rope stretch with added distance from tree to the waterfall edge. Put sling (s) and carabiner (s) on the second tree. If you use static line for your anchor, you can slip a length of 1" tubular webbing over the line for an edge protector. Using the rope for the anchor is great for swinging leads, but for block leading, I prefer some other type of anchor. edit: here is another discussion about it with a bunch of different opinions. Rope will obviously go through the quick draws at the bottom. That's a problem. However, I found something I would do differently- curious as to whether anyone picks out the same thing. The quick draw anchor is the least secure of all the anchors. It might make more sense in the long run, and $ wise, to use one single length I'm trying to extend my top rope anchor a few feet. Doing more outdoor climbing and i just want to be as safe as possible and extend rope life. I think Irata say you have to double things up once the Would this be considered a good Personal Anchor System? (18mm Nylon runner 240cm, braided to shorten) Top rope anchor with quickdraws I have always used 2 quickdraws opposite and opposed for toprope anchors but this weekend I had someone at the crag tell me this was super dangerous and only an equalized webbing anchor was safe. Take the other end of the static line and go to second tree. Other than that, some tubular webbing to make anchors, maybe some cordlette/slings, locking biners, and a belay device. If one somehow blows a piece in their top rope anchor (again, set good pieces and this should never happen), the extension in the anchor is equivalent to the climber falling the same distance onto the rope. Just curious. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. I've watched a lot of videos now on building a belay anchor for multi-pitches, videos on how to build top rope anchors with two feet firmly planted on the ground, but all of the videos on how to set up a rap off the anchors to clean a lead/sport route they always pull out some cordage or a PAS at some point. It provides easy clipping at the top and I usually choose this for when all climbers will be leading the climb. You can build an anchor just about anywhere at the lake with a set of hexes and a 25-50 foot piece of static rope. If rope has chance of abrading over edges you can setup intermediate anchor below that feature using a clove hitch to a draw before that feature with rope above loose/will be unweighed untill unclipping the clove. As always, make sure your anchor meets the requirements of the six point rule before you set up a top rope. They instead recommend using a 20' length of Gear for Top Rope Climbing August 4, 2018 Climbing Gear Reviews, Gear Reviews, Rock Climbing, Tech Tips climbing gear gear for top rope climbing toproping Photo by Alexandra Roberts After teaching an anchor Hi, quick question. 17/1. 5 to 18kn (although I believe 18 to be a type for 8mm). ordrlpg lzvl sdhcth jjdvz sgzpycx hbjuc onftngfy bedha ndyt zio