Finger strength training at home reddit. V5 bouldering My finger max is 10 kg add in 7 seconds.

Finger strength training at home reddit. Why this protocol? Because it’s very time-effective and backed by science to maximize finger strength. Ofcourse you can strengthen your fingers. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. In climbing, the fingers remain relatively static after grabbing a hold, so it’s best to train finger strength in the most common positions: You'll train finger strength by climbing problems that are too difficult for you at the moment. This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. If you treated finger strength like lifting weights how would you organize training to reach a 140% bw hang, or change your training to reach 170% when basic progress slow? Or is treating half crimp strength as a lifting exercise a wrong approach? Mar 26, 2025 · Training strength usually requires isotonic exercises like pull-ups that involve moving the joint through its range of motion, so muscles get stronger at every angle. Then my problem is, I cannot sustain at 4kg everyweek As to whether the gripper exercisers increase your grip strength, I think it depends on specificity, if you need a specific type of grip strength you would be better off with an exercise that matches the specific demands of your sport or job. Please take note, I have seen plenty of climbers pop their pulley in their first 18-24 months climbing because they push their fingers too hard. How to improve finger strength. It is usually recommended to start finger training after a year of climbing. Hangboards don't need 10 different pocket combinations to work. I added in the wrist curl as condition training also. Binder clips are great for finger strength. Thanks! Climbing multiple times a week does wonders for finger strength if you focus on working problems that require a lot of finger strength. Aside from that, a very cheap option is to buy a 3/4 in strip of wood, and nail/screw it onto another piece of wood (Porch rafter, over a door way, under the stairs, etc). Hi guys, as the title asks, does anyone have any tips on how to improve my finger strength? I love climbing but my fingers ache so much after a few climbs. The only answer is time and consistency, introduce finger boards when there’s no climbs available that are challenging your fingers strength, or you’re adding weight to max hangs (after minimum a year of solid climbing) You theoretically can finger board now and probably avoid injury, but the reward for risk is not worth it. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. I'm at V5-6 and just consider finger now to try to break into V7. Not 100% on that though. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Here is a link to the potential injuries that can come with "training" your fingers. That said, you still have room to focus more on techniques instead of strength. V5 bouldering My finger max is 10 kg add in 7 seconds. You could do something similar to that last bonus challenge with them, but it would be much harder than a clothes pin. As someone who has a gym background you might want to make sure you're not solving your problems with just strength. I’m 180cm, 77kg 7a lead outdoor. I have follow the max hang protocol that now can do 4kg (90% max) for 10 sec 6 rep. Find a problem in your gym that is particularly finger-y and work it regularly - you'll find improvements in strength but also in technique and body position as you learn how to make a difficult climb easier. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Reddit's rock climbing training community. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. Hi all, I would like to ask about finger strength training which is my weakness and I really want to improve. Check it out! There have been a half dozen climbing specific studies that indicate grip trainer strength does not correlate to hangboard strength or to on-the-wall performance. I like the idea of hypertrophy training using whatever you want, but the published data indicates that gripper training is at best tangentially beneficial to climbing. The reason I like this is because despite their being merit to “just climbing” instead of training finger strength in isolation, I feel quite strongly a lot of new climbers at modern gyms will end up under training their fingers due to the heavy use of jugs and slopers. Hangboarding is also the safest way to build hand strength because you can train progressively and measurably, starting with lighter weights and gradually building a base of strength over weeks/months. . I would imagining only hanging on to something would create finger strength imbalances. I would recommend doing a variety of finger strengthening exercises. hpip fjp dkgnb uek jzzt odfahtn mbsuasix iyha qbfb ldaz